As you may have read
recently, I’ve been friends with Molly Stevens for over 30 years now. We’ve traveled, cooked, and eaten
together in dozens of places around the world. If you don’t yet know her award-winning cookbooks, check
them out! Her newest, All About Dinner, is
fantastic. If you missed Molly’s class at BAKE!®, and
the special dinner she did at the Roadhouse, there’s still time to buy the book. A great gift for anyone you
know who likes to eat, it’s all about what Molly makes for dinner at home and is filled with insights and
observations about getting comfortable in the kitchen! (If you have a friend or relative who wants to
learn to cook, but believes they’re not good at it, Molly’s new offering might be the perfect book to talk them
through the learning process.)
Shifting from friendship to formaggio, the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese we have at
the Deli is so good right now. Looking for interesting ways to put it to use, I started looking through the
work of some of my favorite writers. In the process, I stumbled on this great little salad recipe in All
About Dinner. It’s terrific. And easy! No joke, I put it together in under ten minutes.
The salad starts with fresh mushrooms. You’ll want a fair few since they shrink down some as they
marinate in the dressing. I probably used about a pound for two of us, a mix of straight white button mushrooms along
with some lovely little oyster mushrooms I got from Tantre Farms at the Farmer’s Market. Wipe the mushrooms of
any dirt and slice them fairly thin. I took Molly up on her suggestion to add some fresh, thinly sliced fennel
too. Mince a shallot or two and add to the mix. Squeeze on the juice of a whole fresh lemon (you can
adjust to taste). Sprinkle some sea salt and a good bit of black pepper—raw mushrooms generally need to be
well-seasoned, so don’t skimp. Then add a lot of chopped fresh parsley—the parsley is a key ingredient
here, not just a garnish. Add some good olive oil. Toss and let it stand for a bit.
As Molly says in the book, you can serve the salad shortly after mixing, or you can wait a few hours. I
did the latter to let the flavors come together. (Leftovers were just as tasty the next evening as well.) When
you’re ready to serve, put the salad out on plates, and then get a nice chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano—I’m
really liking both the three-year-old Roncadella cheese, or the
44-month-old offering from Valserena. Grab your potato
peeler and shave off a goodly number of cheese “curls” on top of each plate of salad. It’s a wonderful way
to use this classic cheese that has nothing to do with pasta or grating—the buttery musicality of the
Parmigiano Reggiano makes a perfect foil to the earthy mellowness of the mushrooms.
Building on Molly’s good work, I also tried some slight variations that aren’t in the book. The
salad is fantastic, it turns out, with the addition of a couple of anchovies.
It’s also great with some toasted walnuts on top! I also tried it
on a bed of fresh spinach, and that worked well too. The green of the spinach and its natural “herbiness” was
a lovely contrast to the mushrooms.
For what it’s worth, I was a bit anxious to tell Molly that I’d messed with a carefully tested recipe,
but her response cleared my mind. “That’s the whole point of the book,” she said. “To help get people comfortable
in the kitchen, so they do their own experimenting, enjoy what they’re eating, and start cooking more!” I’m
in full agreement! Whether you cook every day like I do, or worried you couldn’t cook your way out of a paper
bag, if you like mushrooms, this salad is surely for you!