Lakrids Danish Licorice
The Scandinavian candy classic
comes to Zingerman’s Southside
Lakrids is the story of a Dane, a man who had the courage and insight to make a small, but meaningful change. Instead of looking at licorice as the mass-market item it has become over the years, Johan Bulow believed he could create an artisan offering that would be wonderfully special. Bulow began his work on the island of Bornholm in 2007. When he started hand-cooking and selling his artisan licorice, the response was surprising. His small shop was swamped! Tourists were particularly drawn to this display of Danish tradition. In the process, a whole new set of licorice lovers was apparently born.
We have nearly a dozen different Lakrids’ offerings on the Candy Store shelves. All are excellent. In the moment, here are three that are high on my list!
Lakrids A
My favorite is probably this one. Bulow’s original offering, it’s dark black artisan licorice coated in milk chocolate and then dusted with cocoa powder. It’s got the complexity, balance, and finish that for us, at Zingerman’s, defines full flavor. (See “A Taste of Zingerman’s Food Philosophy” for much more on that!) Subtly sweet, a lovely touch of cocoa-ness, a creaminess on the tongue, and a liveliness that fills the mouth in a marvelous way.
Lakrids #2
Although salted licorice like this is barely known in the U.S., it’s by far one of the most popular confections you can find in Scandinavia. Over there, pretty much every kid grows up eating it, and most Scandinavian expats I encounter still seem to be crazy about it. Bulow says, “When your lips close around a bite of this strong, salty liquorice, the potent Nordic taste explodes on your tongue, bringing up associations of the sea, tar, bonfire smoke, and the scent of resin.” I’ve heard from whiskey drinkers that it’s a great pairing with well-aged bourbon or scotch.
Lakrids #3
If you’re ready for artisan red licorice, it might be time to let Twizzlers a back seat and give this red licorice that’s made from fresh fruit juice a shot. (I’m sorry to say, Twizzlers actually have no licorice in them at all!) These are colored and flavored with a blend of blackcurrant, cranberry, lemon, and strawberry juices. Delicious! Sweet! Superb!
Keep some of these delicious Danish licorice treats on your desk, stick ’em in your toolbox and take them to a job site, pack them for the plane, or pop a jar in your glovebox. They’re just right for moments when you need a little something to shake your mind back awake or help yourself get re-centered.
Jerry Garcia once said of the Grateful Dead, “Our audience is like people who like licorice. Not everybody likes licorice, but the people who like licorice really like licorice.” Whether you like the Dead or not, you might want to make your way over to the Candy Store. Ask for a sample of this delightful Danish treat!! It could be the beginning of a long and loving relationship!
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