Chernushka Rye Bread from the Bakehouse
Special Bake this Friday and Saturday, June 6-7
Loaves of crusty Jewish rye, liberally laced with black, softly spicy, and aromatic nigella seeds—Chernushka Rye happens to be one of my favorite breads, so every time I see it on the Special Bake list at the Bakehouse, I want to spread the word! If you’ve ever tasted Chernushka Rye, you’re likely part of the small but mighty cadre of folks who love it dearly. If you’ve never had it, I’m gonna bet that you’ll love it, too. And when you try it, I predict you’ll understand even better why we decided to turn frustration into the hard work of launching Zingerman’s Bakehouse all those years ago.
Chernushki (the Russian plural of chernushka) are the tiny black seeds you might also know as nigella. (The word chernuyi means “black,” and they’re a very deep, dense shade at that.) Native to the Middle East and India, these seeds are also called kalonji. And while they have a bit of a peppery flavor, they aren’t related to peppercorns. They’re used a lot in bread, but also in other recipes. Their flavor is intriguing, said to hint of thyme, licorice, or onion; for me, it’s almost intoxicating. If you want to cook with chernushka seeds, sprinkle them on salads, pasta dishes, or roasted potatoes. They partner well with other spices, too, for curries or the classic Bengalese masala panch phoron (which also includes cumin, fenugreek, mustard seed, and fennel).
Amy Emberling—co-managing partner at the Bakehouse and co-author of the Zingerman’s Bakehouse cookbook (where you can find the rye bread recipe!) and, most recently, Zingerman’s Celebrate Every Day—says,
The floral and spicy aroma of this bread … transports me back 40 years or so to my 10-year-old self, doing errands with my beloved mother during our Saturday afternoon routine. One regular stop on our weekly route was the childhood deli of my youth, Ike’s. While our Montreal smoked meat was being sliced and the adults had adult conversations, I happily explored the shelves full of foreign, unfamiliar foods and took in the unusual smells of the store. Unbeknownst to me, until I started baking this bread here at the Bakehouse in the ’90s, one of these aromas was chernushka. It brings me joy just to breathe this bread.
The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory health benefits of chernushka seeds are legendary. (You’d have to eat a good bit of the seeds to experience them, but why not?) They have a long history in Asia and the Middle East, and you’ll find them in dishes from the Indian subcontinent west to North Africa. Muhammad once stated, “The black seed can heal every disease, except death.” They’re also said to act as a natural insect repellent—take a loaf with you in the backyard and try it out.
The most important part of this equation, though, is the eating. I think the Chernushka Rye is really good with corned beef or pastrami, and right now, it would be great with grilled asparagus on a sandwich. Use it as the base for a very memorable BLT, toast it and enjoy with Zingerman’s Cream Cheese or Goat Cream Cheese, or cut a thick slice from a fresh loaf and spread on that lovely Vermont Creamery Cultured Butter. Oh, and it goes well with smoked salmon, too!
One last tip: the Chernushka Rye makes for wonderful croutons. Cut it into cubes; toss with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, and pepper; and bake until golden brown. You can snack on them, put them on a salad, or add them to a soup!
