Gofio Goat Cheese from the Canary Islands
Fine flavor and artisan excellence from the island of Fuerteventura
Looking for a cheese that’s exceptionally flavorful and equally accessible? Something different but not too drastic? How about this great Cabra al Gofio goat cheese from the Canary Island of Fuerteventura? It just came back in stock at the Deli, and it is, as always, delicious!
In case you aren’t well versed in their geography and history, there are seven volcanic islands in the Canary archipelago. They lie not too far off the west coast of Morocco, and the islands’ original inhabitants are thought to have a shared background with the Berbers, the Indigenous peoples of North Africa. Despite the English linguistic association with birds, the name Canarias actually comes from cane, or “dogs,” a reference to the very fierce breed found there. The islands were conquered at various points by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Castilians, Portuguese, British, and Spanish—the Castilians arrived in the 14th century, and the Canaries became a colony of mainland Spain. Canary Islanders were actually among the early Spanish colonists in the Americas, and what is now Texas still has a fairly significant community to this day. In 1982, the year we opened the Deli, the Canaries became what’s called an “autonomous community” of Spain (the same classification as, say, Catalonia).
The Gofio cheese begins with traditional Majorero cheese from Fuerteventura, about 60 miles off the African coast. The island is home to the Cabro Majorera goat, whose milk gives a unique, almost toasted nuance to the flavor of the finished cheese. (Majorera is a Guanche word—Guanche being the traditional language of the islands—still used today to describe the people of Fuerteventura.) Gofio refers to the grain used to coat the cheese while it ages. It was originally made from barley, then later from wheat, and, in recent centuries—after the Spanish colonizers brought maize back from the Americas—most frequently from cornmeal. It’s essentially a toasted flour that’s also used in other dishes: dumplings, porridge, to thicken soups or stews, and so on.
With the finished cheese, the gofio is just a light dusting of finely ground cornmeal on the rind. Its physical presence is small, but it adds depth of flavor and character, leading to a slightly denser texture. Known as the “Jewel of Fuerteventura,” this cheese has become my and Tammie’s go-to the past month. Novices and cheese aficionados alike are highly likely to enjoy it. It’s great cut from the round as is, sliced and used in a grilled cheese, tossed into a green salad, or eaten with fresh fruit and nuts. Enjoy it with a piece of the Bakehouse’s True North Bread or Country Miche. I love it with the Roadhouse Bread, whose cornmeal pairs well with the cheese, and accompanied by toasted almonds or walnuts. It’s terrific, too, with the wonderful heirloom apples on the market right now around Ann Arbor. Add a glass of wine, and dream about relaxing on one of those lovely Canary Island beaches.
