Maddie’s Matzo Ball Ritual

Back home in Illinois, in one town over from mine, centered right dab in the middle of Old Orchard mall, resides my childhood deli, The Bagel. The place hasn’t changed much throughout my lifetime. All of the servers have been there forever and recognize you the instant you walk through the door. A complimentary silver platter of deli pickles and a basket brimming with bagel chips and Kaiser rolls are still presented to you when you sit down at your table. The glass cases at the deli counter house the same array of layer cakes, cookies, and the largest collection of chocolate covered dessert items I’ve ever seen.

The encyclopedic menu hasn’t changed much either, with enough options that you could eat something different everyday for years, and still have more things to try. In spite of all of these options, my selections have remained consistent since I was eight years old: Reuben or turkey club, chopped salad, obligatory side order of French fries, and matzo ball soup.

It was at the Bagel that my love of delis was officially affirmed and, looking back, one of the main reasons I think I was drawn to work at Zingerman’s Delicatessen six years ago. While the food and the people are obviously the hallmarks of any great deli, what I have grown to love about this type of restaurant in general are the rituals that people develop there. It is this subject that’s been at the front of my mind this week with the arrival of Passover, a holiday centered on the observance of rituals.

Throughout my time at Zingerman’s, I’ve developed a long list of my own personal rituals. Of the 100+ sandwiches on the menu, I pretty much always order the #73 (Tarb’s Tenacious Tenure). I like to sit in the same window seat in the Next Door (the second one back from the front door). And I absolutely must have a sesame bagel and cream cheese for breakfast at work on Sundays. Looking back, it makes sense that I’m wired this way because much of my affinity for ritual was harnessed back when I was a kid during weekly visits to the Bagel. I could probably list off an entire page’s worth of traditions from there, but the one that always sticks out to me was eating the matzo ball soup from my lineup of foods mentioned above. Sounds simple enough, right? Wrong. I had a system and always found joy in executing it the same way each and every time.

Served in a very shallow ceramic bowl, the Bagel ladles in enough of their golden chicken broth until it’s just about to overflow. One enormous matzo ball is placed smack in the middle (for visual size reference, think of an orange or an onion), the bowl is centered on a plate for balance, and the whole thing is sent over to the table in the blink of an eye. I remember that my younger self was always amazed by the number of bowls of scalding hot matzo ball soup the waiters would be able to carry at a given time. Granted it was nearly impossible that your bowl of soup would retain all of the broth during the journey to the table, but it was all part of the charm. Whatever escaped, you could just sop up with challah bread later.

After it was set down at the table, I’d always start by methodically skimming the outermost layer off of the entire matzo ball. This part always maintained the fluffiest texture and absorbed lots of the salty chicken broth. Once that portion was completed, I’d start spooning off chunks, which always had a bit more chew to them than the outer layer. After whittling my way down to the tougher core of the matzo ball, I’d switch over to spooning up just the broth until the bowl was emptied. And that’s how it went, every time.

A lot has changed during these past few years, but I’ve always found such solace knowing that places like the Bagel, Zingerman’s, and all the great delis around the country exist. Places where time stands always seems to stand still, where you see the same faces over and over again, where you know the food will hit the spot every time, and where you can take comfort in your rituals. It is this type of place that brings me peace and the type of place I long to find wherever life takes me.

For all of you celebrating Passover and Easter this week, I wish you happy and delicious holidays. Cheers!

– Maddie

The Deli’s Maddie LaKind interviews Tim Mazurek of Lottie + Doof

I can’t recall how I first discovered food blogs. I know my first exposure came about five years ago, but outside of that, its all a giant, wonderful blur. I remember thinking at the time how at home I felt among these writers, people who love food, love travel, and love using their experiences to connect with others. Today I follow upwards of twenty blogs and am constantly on the hunt for more.

Among the few blogs that first caught my eye was Lottie + Doof. Curated by Chicagoan Tim Mazurek, the blog is a stunning collection of eye-catching recipes, drool-worthy pictures, travel stories, and musings on everything from feminism to food politics. In addition to being an excellent writer, photographer, and general food connoisseur, Tim is a major Zingerman’s fan and a frequent visitor to the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses. I had the good fortune of connecting with Tim recently via the comments section of his blog. We struck up a conversation about the Detroit/Ann Arbor food scene, and we began to delve more deeply into his relationship with Zingerman’s. Here is what he had to say on the subject.

How did you first hear about Zingerman’s?

Aren’t we all born with the knowledge of Zingerman’s? I guess at some point the catalog became a regular staple in our house and I loved reading it and ordering strange things like pine syrup or some crazy honey.

What’s your most memorable moment at Zingerman’s?

On my very first trip to Ann Arbor, we completed the Tour De Food [alas, retired -ed.], and were very proud of our accomplishment. I still have the t-shirt somewhere. It was impressive to see this food empire that had only ever existed in catalog form for me. Everywhere we went we were welcomed warmly and given lots of samples. Some kind person even took us on an impromptu tour of the bakeshop, and I really loved that. It was definitely love at first sight.

What Zingerman’s products or dishes would you rank as your favorites?

I’ve liked everything I’ve tried, so this is tough. I am a big fan of the apricot rugelach, and always pick up a package for the road. All of the cookies, really. And all of the bread, and sandwiches, and…

Most notable service experience at Zingerman’s?

I love the market section of the Deli. Everyone is so helpful and encourages you to try things. Their excitement about the food is contagious. A lot is said about the great customer service at Zingerman’s, but until you actually visit for yourself you can’t understand just how wonderful it is.

Favorite deli sandwich of the moment?

Either the Cowboy Reuben or the Hot BLT.

Corned beef or pastrami?

Pastrami.

New or old pickle?

New!

Cake or pie?

Pie, always pie.

Buttery hard cheese or creamy soft cheese?

Definitely a hard cheese, preferably with some crunchy little bits of tyrosine.

Fried chicken or mac and cheese?

Fried Chicken, but not an easy choice.

Cup of brewed coffee or cappuccino?

Brewed coffee

Chocolate bar or peanut brittle?

Peanut brittle, by a mile.

New features or recipes on the horizon from Lottie + Doof ?

“Keep Lottie + Doof Weird” is my motto for the future. I’ve been doing this for a while now, and times have changed. Food blogs are not a novelty anymore. I think it is important to keep things interesting.

For those of you who haven’t yet had the privilege of reading Tim’s blog, I insist you hop right on over to Lottie + Doof and pay a visit. You won’t be disappointed. Thank you Tim for sharing these memories with all of us.

Cheers!

Maddie Goes to the movies

Few things bring me more joy in life than food and movies. So when the two are paired together, I’m a pretty happy gal. With both the Academy Awards and Valentine’s Day fast approaching, I’ve found my mind recently wandering back to famous romantic movie scenes. More specific to my food-centered self though, those iconic moments where the main characters fall in love around a meal or dish. Then I got to thinking, what better way to celebrate the best of movies, food, and love than to re-create these moments at home with products from our very own Zingerman’s Deli! So that’s what I decided to do. Here in no particular order are some of my all-time favorite romantic movie scenes and the iconic foods that go along with them.

The Lady and the Tramp

Who could possibly forget the famous spaghetti sharing moment from The Lady and the Tramp? Two dogs in love sharing a first kiss over a single piece of spaghetti—cinematic perfection. Fortunately for all of you pasta lovers out there, Zingerman’s Deli houses around thirty different types of pasta perfect for crafting your own pasta kiss. Looking to stick to the classic spaghetti? Try Italian varieties from Martelli or Rustichella. Want to mix it up with some organic whole grain pastas. Try Baia pasta from Oakland California for unique grains like durum wheat, spelt, and kamut. And you can’t forget the red sauce! The Il Mongetto line of sauces from Italy keep it simple with San Marzano tomato sauces flavored with mushroom, red chili, or anchovies while Mahjoub sauces from Tunisia bring a Mediterranean flare with sauces highlighted with capers, preserved lemon, and olives.

Pretty Woman

When I was a kid, Cinderella epitomized classic storybook romance. So it’s no surprise that Pretty Woman, essentially Cinderella adapted to modern day, remains one of my favorite corny romantic comedies today. The premise is simple enough. An LA call girl, played by Julia Roberts, ends up falling in love with a wealthy businessman, played by Richard Gere, who picks her up off of Hollywood Blvd his first night in town and transforms her into a worldly, proper lady. During there first night together at the Beverly Wilshire hotel, Gere sets the mood by having a gleaming bowl of strawberries sent to their room. Lucky for all you deli fans out there, Zingerman’s Next Door will be selling chocolate covered strawberries starting February 13 and running through February 15. Throw some chilled Champagne in the mix for the authentic Pretty Woman experience.

Chocolat

If I had to choose one movie that embodies Valentine’s Day, Chocolat starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche would take the cake, or the chocolate rather. In the movie, Juliette Binoche owns a quaint confiserie in a small town in the French countryside. After opening her shop, she is visited by a river gypsy, played by Johnny Depp, who docks in town for a few weeks. The result is a passionate romance fueled by Binoche’s stunning chocolate confections. While the classic heart shaped box of chocolate has its merits on Valentine’s Day, why not mix things up and create your own custom box of hand-crafted, locally made truffles all found at Zingerman’s Next Door. Like white chocolate? Try ‘The Lover,’ a white chocolate heart filled with a bright, citrusy passion fruit curd. Like it fruity? Try the ‘Pomegranate Ginger Dark Chocolate Truffle,’ brimming with pomegranate extract and fresh grated ginger. Love booze and chocolate paired together? Try the ‘Baby Bourbon,’ which combines milk chocolate with a single-grain bourbon whisky. No matter your preference, there is a truffle for everyone and the combinations are limitless.

Beauty and the Beast

Whenever I was asked the “what is your favorite Disney movie?” as a kid, Beauty and the Beast always ranked high on my list. Much of that love can be attributed to the famous song “Be Our Guest” during which Belle dines at the Beast’s castle for the first time. After being greeted by Lumiere the candlestick, Cogsworth the clock, and Mrs. Pots the teapot, Belle is presented with a feast of delectable French dishes including “beef ragu, cheese soufflé, pie and pudding a flambé”: a whimsical and worthy meal for any Valentine’s Day dinner. While Zingerman’s doesn’t make a beef ragu per se, don’t miss the barbecue pulled beef brisket (a favorite of Oprah Winfrey!) stewed in a sweet/spicy sauce. Or our winter exclusive red brick beef pot pie made with all-natural beef from Ernst farm in Washtenaw county wrapped up in a house made buttery crust. To create your own cheese soufflé at home, stop by the cheese counter for an endless array of gruyeres, cheddars, and bleus. And for dessert, don’t forget to visit Zingerman’s Next Door for handmade apple/lemon chess/pecan pies from Zingerman’s Bakehouse or some classic chocolate pudding (made in house).

When Harry Met Sally

I couldn’t compile a list of famous foodie movie scenes without mentioning the infamous deli scene from When Harry Met Sally. While sharing a lunch of corned beef and turkey sandwiches at Katz’s deli in New York, best friends Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal discuss the intricacies of relationships, specifically regarding the private moments in the bedroom. You have to watch the scene to grasp the full genius of the moment, but the real highlight of the scene for me is the backdrop of the deli with pickles and coleslaw on the table, kosher salamis hanging on the walls, and lots of hungry customers crowded together cafeteria style. The setting is comforting and familiar and serves as the perfect foil to such a seemingly silly conversation. To recreate this moment at home, stop by Zingerman’s retail for famed Sy Ginsberg corned beef/pastrami, sliced sandwich cheeses, house made Russian dressing and coleslaw, cucumbery or garlicky pickles, and traditional rye breads from Zingerman’s Bakehouse. Nothing says love, like big messy sandwiches in the comfort of your own home.

So for all of you lovers and movie-buffs out there, I wish you a Happy Valentine’s Day and a Happy Oscar season. May it be filled with memorable moments, lots of laughs, and seriously delicious eats.

– Maddie 

Maddie LaKind shares her Challah tale

September is finally here, which means Rosh Hashanah—the Jewish New Year—is just around the corner. For as long as I can remember, Rosh has been my favorite Jewish holiday. The fall always feels like the best time to not only reflect on the year that has passed but also look forward and set goals for the future. But if I’m being honest, what excites me more than anything about this holiday is the wonderful food, which runs the gamut from brisket, to roast chicken, kugel, matzo ball soup, apples and honey, chopped liver, beautiful desserts, and my all time favorite, round raisin challah bread. Since Rosh is the holiday for equal parts reflection and eating, I thought I’d take a moment to ask some questions about challah bread, specifically about my various attempts at baking it at home. And who better to ask than the source itself?

Dear Challah,

Why must you torment me so when all I’ve ever shown you is love and adoration? Remember the early days of preschool at Beth Emet synagogue. Every Friday morning we would prepare loaves of your beautiful self to take home for our respective Shabbat dinners. Or how about middle school, when my family discovered a new bakery in town that made the best loaves of Challah we’d ever tasted. You became the star of our household for years to come. Or college when I began work at Zingerman’s Deli and would stare longingly at all of the beautiful varieties of you in the bread box—chocolate chunk, braided, square, seeded, plain. Clearly we have a connection.

So why, Challah, given all of this respect, did you present so many issues when I tried to bake you at home? I’m a patient person with a good sense of intuition in the kitchen, but you were the one project I couldn’t seem to master.

The trouble really began about two years ago, when I prepared a Shabbat dinner for my house of eight college roommates. After four laborious hours dissolving yeast, kneading dough, proofing once, twice, thrice times, braiding, it finally came time for you to bake. The only catch was our busted oven, which meant you had to be taken over to the neighbor’s kitchen. Alas, I lost track of time, arriving too late to retrieve you. Your entire top half a was a matted-black color rather than the intended shiny golden brown. So much time and so much hope shattered in the span of five minutes.

Despite the challenges of my first effort, I didn’t give up. I became determined to attempt you once again, this time during Rosh Hashanah the following September. Using the exact same recipe as before, I methodically went through each step, making sure each of your ingredients was precisely measured and each phase of your growth intensely monitored. But, you weren’t on my side this go-around either. Instead of puffing up into a large woven braid, you rose only a mere ¼ in. or so while baking, and took on the texture of a chewy pretzel rather than a light, fluffy egg bread. Two strikes and my motivation was waning.

But even that couldn’t hold me back from taking you on once again for yet another Shabbat dinner with family. Discouraged by the failed attempts of the first recipe, I tried another this time, one that places your dough form in the refrigerator over night before baking. Intrigued by the new technique, I thought this time would bring only success. Wrong. First mistake in the process: I forgot to add sugar into your dough after kneading in all of the flour. Oops. I figured it couldn’t hurt too much to just add it back into the mixture after the fact. Wrong again. Then the real fun began. For some reason when I placed you in the refrigerator, you decided to flatten out into a pancake and, during baking, didn’t rise an inch. Texturally you were off as well, taking on a bland almost plastic-like consistency hardly reminiscent of true challah at all.

Challah, the phrase fed up doesn’t even begin to cover how you made feel all these times. I was angry, hurt, disappointed, and hungry for a taste of the real deal. That irresistible, buttery, sweet, deep flavor that held so much nostalgia. I decided some time away from you could help turn things around and give me a new perspective on the situation. A year later, I gave the process another go with a brand-spanking-new recipe, and much to my surprise, you turned out absolutely perfect.

After recreating this specific recipe nearly three times over, I finally feel at peace with you. I just wanted to share how you made me feel, and to ask why you had to cause me such distress for so long? Maybe you were trying to teach me something. Maybe you were trying to show me that good things take time. Or maybe you were just trying to tell me that mistakes are important, especially in the kitchen. I guess I’ll never know. Whatever your reasons, I forgive you and thank you for the memories, both good and bad. I look forward to baking you and sharing you with loved ones for years to come.

Much love and bread wishes,

Maddie

Erev Rosh Hashanah is September 24. 
Let Zingerman’s do the cooking this year! Check out the Deli’s Rosh Hashanah Menu for a wonderful selection of tasty treats from Zingerman’s Bakehouse, as well as a savory assortment from Zingerman’s Deli. L’Shanah tovah!

Maddie LaKind shares a cheesy story

People choose to start their mornings in all sorts of ways. Some opt for a cup of coffee and the paper. Some prefer an intense workout. Some even choose to wake up and reflect through writing or meditation. My mornings always start with mozzarella—that is mozzarella making rather than mozzarella eating. Although, I wouldn’t be opposed to the latter.

For nearly as long as I’ve worked in Zingerman’s Deli retail, the preparation of mozzarella has been the primary task on my morning checklist. Each day, between 7:00am and 8:00am, I (or any of the other few who have chosen to embark on the crazy journey of mastering “mozz”) turn a big hunk of curd into individually portioned servings of milky, mildly salty, cheesy goodness.

Just like jam, or pie, or any number of other well loved, but labor-intensive food classics, mozzarella is finicky to say the least. I always think about it like a math problem of sorts: all of the elements—heat, water, time, motion—must come together in just the right ratios to make a successful mozzarella. Some batches of mozzarella might be considered good by many standards, but that’s never really what I’m looking for. I want mozzarella that makes people swoon, that puts even the sweetest, and most succulent heirloom tomatoes to shame, the kind of mozzarella that people actively seek out, that brings them back. This has been my mozz quest since the very beginning.

The mozzarella making process is an inherently simple one. All you are really doing is heating up curd and bringing it together into a giant mass so that you can pull pieces off and shape them into individually portioned balls. Once shaped, the cheese is soaked in a salt-water brine to firm up and add that lovely salty flavor. Sounds easy enough, right? The catch is that you are essentially racing against the clock during this whole process. Either too little, or too much time can lead to a less than ideal mozzarella. Heating the curd too quickly will lead to the excretion of too much milk fat, yielding a dry and chewy texture. And if the curd sits for too long in the hot water, it will simultaneously lose milk fat and melt, creating a slippery mass of curd that ultimately yields a final product that’s too dry. So much for an inherently simple process, huh?

I think what I’ve realized about mozzarella making, as with any art form, is that the entire process is informed by practice, trial, and error. I’m pretty sure you have to make about 30 batches of botched mozzarella before you achieve your ideal desired product. For many people, this sort of process is completely unappealing. Why would you want to invest so much time in something that takes so long to give you something delicious in return? For me, I like the challenge. I like that it’s not always easy. I like that you have to use your senses and intuition to create the best possible mozzarella. I like that I learn something new about the process with every batch I make. And I really can’t complain about tasting mozzarella five days a week!

While my mozzarella mornings aren’t very conventional, for my obsessive foodie self, they are the perfect way to start my day.

– Maddie 

An appreciation

For those of you Ann Arborites who haven’t heard of Central Provisions yet, take note. Founded by my co-worker Steve Hall and his crazy talented girlfriend Abby Olitzky of Sweet Heather Anne, Central Provisions is what Steve and Abby call a “working larder” which includes part restaurant, part market, and part kitchen. Together they host dinners, cater events, and sell a plethora of homemade items like jams, pickles, and baked goods all with an emphasis on clean, simple flavors and locally sourced ingredients. I’ve had the good fortune of eating a number of meals with this dynamic duo and can say wholeheartedly that it is some of the most exciting food in Ann Arbor right now.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words—especially when it comes to pictures of food—I thought I’d let some of Steve and Abby’s Instagram account do the talking. So, without further ado, here are 10 reasons why I love Central Provisions and why I know you will, too.

and finally…

See you at the dinner! 

– Maddie