Author: Paul Bower
A Super-Rich Jersey Cow’s Milk Cheese
The Manchester draws its origins from a soft-ripened double cream cheese along the Welsh-English border, but through process differences (both intentional and unintentional) no longer bears any resemblance to its very distant cousin. By way of gentle pasteurization and an extraordinarily slow culturing process, the Manchester fully embodies the intricate and sumptuous flavors of the extraordinarily rich Jersey cow’s milk we use to make it.
Featuring a thin, wrinkly geotrichum candidum rind and a luscious, tasty creamline just underneath that rind encompassing a dense, slightly earthy paste, the Manchester varies from a fudgelike delight when young, to an ooey-gooey decadent treat when aged past 2 months.
Like other cheeses, Manchester is best served at room temperature when its full flavor will come through. Because it’s so soft, it will ooze a bit when it’s warm. That’s normal. Try it dusted with light muscovado sugar then baked into puff pastry and served warm for an excellent hors d’oeuvre. Or offer it up in wedges, topped with toasted almonds, hazelnuts or walnuts. It’s excellent spread on ham sandwiches topped with caramelized onions (see recipe below).
Hamchester Sandwich Recipe
(Makes 2)
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a little bit more to grill the sandwiches
- 1/2 pound sweet Vidalia onion
- 4 ounces sliced good ham, like the Prosciutto Americano from La Quercia
- 4 ounces Zingerman’s Creamery Manchester round (sliced thin if it’s cold,
spread if it’s warm) - 4 slices of San Francisco Sourdough bread from Zingerman’s Bakehouse
- 2 tablespoons chutney (optional)
Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderate heat.
Add the onions and sauté until golden (about 25 minutes). Remove from heat.
Place a large nonstick skillet on the stove over medium high heat.
Using a pastry brush, brush 1 side of 2 slices of bread with olive oil, and place oiled side down in skillet. Top each slice with 1 ounce of cheese, 1 ounce of ham, half of the onions, 1 more ounce ham, and topped with 1 more ounce of the cheese.
Top each sandwich with another slice of bread brushed with the oil, oiled side up.
Flip the sandwiches a few times until the cheese is melted and gooey and bread is toasty and golden.
Enjoy!
See you soon!
Author: Paul Bower
July Cheese of the Month
We make these soft, creamy, fresh goat cheese rounds with the best milk we can source from small Michigan goat farmers. Over the years we’ve been fortunate enough to build relationships with some pretty incredible goat dairies, people who are passionate about the health and long-term sustainability of their herds, and this kind of dedication to the animals really comes through in the quality of the milk we receive from them. In order to preserve as much of the depth of flavor in that awesome milk, we use low-temperature pasteurization, a method much gentler than the more prevalent short high-temp pasteurization that a lot of modern cheesemakers utilize.
After that gentle pasteurization is complete we allow the goat’s milk to “set” overnight, which draws out even deeper and more complex flavors, maximizing its intensity. Once the resulting curds have reached a perfect consistency we do something a little different here at the Creamery—hand ladling. Each City Goat is hand ladled into separate perforated forms, which allow whey to drain at a consistent rate, and this painstaking and time-consuming process gives this cheese an amazing, evolving texture, from light and airy when very fresh to firm and perfect for crumbling when more aged.
More recently, we found a great way to package these cheeses. Back in the day we’d wrap them in translucent deli paper and set them out to continue draining, since wrapping them in plastic would lead to a less desirable texture over time. In our quest to find the best way to present our cheeses, we started packaging these tasty goat rounds in a small plastic container with a sealed top, The cheese features a very bright, clean, and slightly citrusy taste that pops in a variety of presentations.
For an easy appetizer, roll in freshly chopped rosemary, tarragon, basil, or any fresh herb you fancy. The citrus notes of this cheese are a perfect accompaniment to a number of charcuterie or crudités. Slice a city goat in half lengthwise, then stuff with roasted red peppers and pesto. For a Mediterranean experience, try it with honey and toasted almonds. When the City Goat is a little older and firmer, it is wonderful crumbled over salads or in any rich, tomato-based sauce.
The City Goat is available at Zingerman’s Creamery and Zingerman’s Delicatessen.
See you soon!
Author: Paul Bower
Our Dutch-Belted cow’s milk comes to us from Andy Schneider’s Dairy Farm in Westphalia (northwest of Lansing). This dairy has a herd of Dutch-Belted cows which are extremely rare in the U.S. (there are slightly more than 200). What makes the Dutch Belted cow’s milk unique is its high butterfat and protein content, and the way in which the butterfat globules bond to one another. The bonds are small, creating a supremely dense, rich curd. Originating from the Alps, Dutch-Belted cows gained great popularity in Scandinavia until finally being introduced to the US.
Andy Schneider takes pains to produce a milk that is significantly better than the norm. The calves are provided their mother’s milk for ten months or until the mother kicks them off the teat, and the Creamery only gets the excess that the calves can’t drink. (This is the distinction of a dairy cow as opposed to meat cattle–the dairy cow produces more milk than the calf can take in). In the interest of economy, dairy farmers usually put the calves on formula and sell all the milk. Giving calves the milk that was intended for them creates an extremely healthy herd and allows for cows that the Schneiders milk well into their teens. Healthy cows equal healthy milk. Perfect for rich, complex cheeses that allow the natural flavor of this milk to come through.