Classic confection, influenced by Cuba, handcrafted in Turin

Rocco Disderide, who along with his wife Katherine built the building we now know as the Deli back in 1902, was a lifelong lover of tobacco. He smoked a pipe and also cigars throughout his remarkable 105 years. Tobacco was so close to his heart that even when the Disderides sold the Deli’s building to the Diroff Brothers in 1921 when he was 64, at what might have seemed roughly a reasonable age for “retirement,” Rocco still kept his small cigar store at 125 E. Ann Street in Ann Arbor for many decades more. He did not stock these delicious handmade chocolate cigars from northern Italy, but if we could condense time, I’m pretty sure his young great-great-great-granddaughter, who I had the honor of meeting this year, would have been very happy if he had!

The origin story of these cigars goes back to the time before Rocco and Katherine Disderide arrived in Ann Arbor with their three daughters. In the town of Turin, in 1878—about 100 miles from where a then 19-year-old Rocco would still at the time have been living near Genoa—a 20-year-old Torinese by the name of Silviano Venchi scraped together all the cash he could come up with to buy two bronze cauldrons. Venchi’s vision was to start a chocolate shop. Back in that era, chocolate in finished form for eating in this way was relatively new, and cacao consumption was all the rage amongst the European cognoscenti. Young Silviano Venchi was very much caught up in the buzz around cacao beans and was willing to risk all he had to make his dreams come true.

A few years into his chocolate work, Venchi made a creative contribution of his own to the confectionary world when he came up with the idea to craft what came to be called “nougatine.” Made from chopped caramelized hazelnuts coated in dark chocolate, it’s essentially a different way of bringing together two of the main products of Torino’s culinary scene—ancient Italian hazelnuts, and the relatively novel chocolate which had come not all that long before from the western hemisphere. Soon, Venchi had created what came to be called “the most elegant chocolate shop in Piedmont.” The company grew from there and has long been one of Italy’s most admired and inspired chocolate makers. If you go to Turin with Zingerman’s Food Tours, you will see Venchi’s confectionery and gelato shops all over the city!

The history of the Venchi chocolate cigars dates to the 1960s when Pietro Cussino, then one of the owners of the company, took a trip to the Caribbean. He was driven by his passion for finding the finest cacao and the best rum to enhance the quality of Venchi’s already exquisite chocolates. Natural Law #8 reminds us, “To get to greatness you’ve got to keep getting better, all the time!” And Sr. Cussino was practicing it. When he arrived in Cuba, he quickly became enamored of the handcrafting that went into the artisan Cuban cigars. In the spirit of nearly all great creative work, Cussino combined these two previously unconnected crafts—artisan cigars with the artisan chocolate making for which Venchi had by then already been famous for nearly 90 years.

Here in 2024, Venchi’s chocolate cigars are still produced and wrapped, beautifully, by hand. We have four types at the Candy Store (inside the Coffee Company):

• The classic original Venchi Chocolate Cigar – Dense and delicious cocoa paste, hand-covered in a double layer of dark chocolate, then foil-wrapped to look almost exactly like a handmade cigar.
• The powerfully good Pistachio Cigar – These have a delicious filling of white chocolate and pistachio paste that’s mixed with chopped pistachios, almonds, and raw cane sugar. A double layer of 60% dark chocolate on the outside!
• Venchi’s signature Nougatine – Silviano Venchi’s original, late 19th century, confectionery creation is at the heart of this one. Dark cocoa paste is mixed with PGI (protected by law) Piedmont hazelnuts that are ground into a coarse confection that’s then laced with caramel chips. The nougatine center is coated with a double layer of chocolate and, again, hand-wrapped in foil in the style of a fine cigar.
• The terrific Orange and Chocolate – Dark chocolate cigars, filled with milk chocolate combined with cocoa paste and seasoned with candied orange peel. The cigar is covered with a double layer of milk and dark 56% chocolate to preserve the aroma to the fullest.

The Venchi cigars are great for any gift for anyone who likes chocolate! You can slice a small bit off to enjoy or serve the cigar whole. They really do look like a fancy cigar—and they taste terrific!

Terrific, toasted cashews in a lovely sheet of caramelized sugar

A tasty treat if you’re in the mood for something sort of sweet, a touch savory, and mostly, just really, really good. It’s been a bit of a surprise sleeper on the Candy Manufactory scene—it showed up on the shelves 10 years or so ago without a lot of fanfare. And then one day, it started to pop up—and kept on popping up—on our customer compliment report week after week. The Cashew Brittle is done with a lot of slow cooking to carefully, patiently, and maybe poetically, caramelize the sugar—with a bit of butter and a pinch of sea salt—as we also do with our already pretty famous peanut brittle.

While pecans are native to North America, cashews came originally from Brazil. The English name “cashew” comes from the Portuguese, caju. The tree is a tropical evergreen that can grow as tall as a four or five-story building. It was brought to India in the middle of the 16th century by Portuguese sailors working the spice routes. Wherever it’s grown, the nut, or more formally, seed, actually grows on the outside of the fruit, which, in English, are known as “cashew apples.”

The Candy Manufactory’s Cashew Brittle is both beautiful and delicious. A dark amber-colored confection, studded with sections of straw yellow, gently toasted, cashew nuts. Put it out on a plate for folks to nibble on for a snack, after a meal, or with morning coffee. The Cashew Brittle pairs really well with cheese. It’s super delicious with Parmigiano Reggiano—I had some on a plate with small, broken-up pieces of the cashew brittle—and it was a huge hit! It’d be terrific with the Street Ched I wrote about last week from Cincinnati. The Cashew Brittle is, of course, also a superb snack or something to stick in your pocket if you’re getting on a plane for a long flight or into a car for a long drive. And, oh yeah, I almost forgot—Cashew Brittle also comes covered with dark chocolate!

It’s great, too, coarsely chopped and tossed onto a salad—sort of like you’d use croutons. Right now the Roadhouse has its amazing fresh arugula, barrel-aged Greek feta, apple, and cashew brittle salad on the monthly specials menu. It’s a terrific coming together of savory and sweet, crunchy and creamy, nutty and nice! Pretty certainly, worthy of a poem. If you’re inspired to write one, send it my way!

Come by the Candy Store, the Roadhouse, or the Deli to pick some up.

Buy a bag of brittle

The Scandinavian candy classic
comes to Zingerman’s Southside

Lakrids is the story of a Dane, a man who had the courage and insight to make a small, but meaningful change. Instead of looking at licorice as the mass-market item it has become over the years, Johan Bulow believed he could create an artisan offering that would be wonderfully special. Bulow began his work on the island of Bornholm in 2007. When he started hand-cooking and selling his artisan licorice, the response was surprising. His small shop was swamped! Tourists were particularly drawn to this display of Danish tradition. In the process, a whole new set of licorice lovers was apparently born.

We have nearly a dozen different Lakrids’ offerings on the Candy Store shelves. All are excellent. In the moment, here are three that are high on my list!

Lakrids A

My favorite is probably this one. Bulow’s original offering, it’s dark black artisan licorice coated in milk chocolate and then dusted with cocoa powder. It’s got the complexity, balance, and finish that for us, at Zingerman’s, defines full flavor. (See “A Taste of Zingerman’s Food Philosophy” for much more on that!) Subtly sweet, a lovely touch of cocoa-ness, a creaminess on the tongue, and a liveliness that fills the mouth in a marvelous way.

Lakrids #2

Although salted licorice like this is barely known in the U.S., it’s by far one of the most popular confections you can find in Scandinavia. Over there, pretty much every kid grows up eating it, and most Scandinavian expats I encounter still seem to be crazy about it. Bulow says, “When your lips close around a bite of this strong, salty liquorice, the potent Nordic taste explodes on your tongue, bringing up associations of the sea, tar, bonfire smoke, and the scent of resin.” I’ve heard from whiskey drinkers that it’s a great pairing with well-aged bourbon or scotch.

Lakrids #3

If you’re ready for artisan red licorice, it might be time to let Twizzlers a back seat and give this red licorice that’s made from fresh fruit juice a shot. (I’m sorry to say, Twizzlers actually have no licorice in them at all!) These are colored and flavored with a blend of blackcurrant, cranberry, lemon, and strawberry juices. Delicious! Sweet! Superb!

Keep some of these delicious Danish licorice treats on your desk, stick ’em in your toolbox and take them to a job site, pack them for the plane, or pop a jar in your glovebox. They’re just right for moments when you need a little something to shake your mind back awake or help yourself get re-centered.

Jerry Garcia once said of the Grateful Dead, “Our audience is like people who like licorice. Not everybody likes licorice, but the people who like licorice really like licorice.” Whether you like the Dead or not, you might want to make your way over to the Candy Store. Ask for a sample of this delightful Danish treat!! It could be the beginning of a long and loving relationship!

Take a look at Lakrids

Surrender to the Sweet Spell of Allison Schraf and Zingerman’s Candy Store

I was thrilled to meet Candy Store manager Allison Schraf at Zingerman’s Coffee Company for some morning caffeine and a chat about what she’s been up to. Like so many Zingerman’s passionate food professionals, Allison’s career path began elsewhere. In her case, with a degree in Equestrian Studies followed by training horses and managing horse farms. Uncovering a zeal for cooking and moving from New York City to Ann Arbor (with several stops in between) led her to a career in specialty food shops. Thus far, her 19-year Zingerman’s career includes product specialist and staff supervisor for Zingerman’s Delicatessen from 1998 to 2006, wholesale sales manager for Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory from 2012 to 2017, and Candy Manufactory retail manager from 2017 to the present.

Although we have worked together for decades and I’m a regular at the Zingerman’s Candy Store, I learned many new things and was really energized by our talk. Her love of what she does, enthusiasm for customer service and a guided shopping experience (aka a confection consultation), and the joy that comes with being around candy is simply inexhaustible. I hope you have the pleasure of experiencing it for yourself, and very soon!

Sara Hudson
Zingerman’s Creative Services Director

Sara: How would you describe the feel of Zingerman’s Candy Store in a few words?
Allison: Magic. Warmth. Abundance. Joy. Fun.

Sara: What do guests say when they step inside for the first time?
Allison: I have found people in America have a complicated relationship with candy, or maybe more accurately, with treating themselves. Some common comments are: “This is a dangerous place,” “This is so sinful,” and “I don’t eat this stuff, it’s for my grandmother.” Others who happily give in to the joy say: “This is magical,” “I want to eat all of it,” or “You have so many things I’ve never seen before!”

One woman recently came in with great urgency and said “I heard you have calissons!” (a traditional French confection made of almond marzipan and candied orange melon). With tears in her eyes, she shared that they remind her of her family and childhood. Candy pulls on people’s memories of special times and special people. We get to watch them access those memories when they are in the store.

Sara: What would you tell someone about Zingerman’s Candy Store who’s never been?
Allison: There is something for everyone! Craft chocolate for every taste, hand-made candy bars and nut brittles, flavorful gummies and fruit jellies, locally-made bonbons, imported Scandinavian licorice, Italian marzipan, Spanish nougat, nostalgic hard candies, vegan milk chocolate, and more! Our staff is here to help you choose the right treat for yourself or gift for someone else.

Sara: What’s the best part of your job as Candy Store manager?
Allison: The very best part of my job is curating the product mix. It is endlessly exciting to learn about and explore the enormous world of confections and then bring them to the store to delight our guests.

Sara: What is your philosophy when sourcing a new confection?
Allison: We love updated nostalgia, when your inner child meets your grown-up palate and they have a good time together! A great example is the Askinosie chocolate-covered malt balls. You probably grew up with a version of chocolate malt balls as a kid, but maybe now you would love them to be made with better quality ingredients and more flavorful dark chocolate. The Askinosie version pleases your childhood memory and your adult palate.

Like all Zingerman’s businesses, we are guided by seeking out traditionally made foods. Some traditions are disappearing, so we try to champion these things, make them available to those who are looking for them, and introduce them to new fans. For instance, I knew I wanted to import really high-quality artisan Italian marzipan, so I searched and tasted (for two years!) before finally finding the one! They’re really special.

Sara: What’s next on your search?
Allison: I would like to add more confections from India, China, and the Middle East to expand the variety of flavor profiles we have in the shop. We’re also continuing to grow our “Provisions” selections which are non-candy items like nuts, dried fruits, sauces, syrups, and snacks to round out your pantry.

Sara: How many items does the candy store offer?
Allison: We offer around 400 to 500 items year round! More than 60 of those are handmade in-house by the skilled candy cooks at Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory. You’ll find an even larger selection during the holidays when we’re stacked with seasonal exclusives.

Sara: Tell me about the “chocolate wall.”
Allison: We have about 100 different bars of craft chocolate in the candy store (that expands for the holidays) and we are looking for new and amazing craft chocolate all the time. You can find white, milk, dark, vegan, the full spectrum of cacao percentages 40-100%, and a world of flavors–from the familiar peanut butter, raspberry, and coconut to the less-common cardamom, bergamot, and hot paprika.

Sara: How does one pick from 100 bars?
Allison: I ask four questions to find out where you are in your journey with craft chocolate. (That’s Step 1 in Zingerman’s 4 Steps To Great Service, find out what the customer wants!) Based on your answers, I choose two or three recommendations and offer a taste. Typically people are surprised and delighted at the thought of samples, but also those lovely Midwest manners kick in and they say, “Oh no. Don’t go to any trouble. Not if you have to open it.” But once they taste, it’s highly likely they’re going home with a new favorite confection. Watching them as they taste and seeing their reaction, it’s just the most fun. I had the same experience at the Deli seeing people leave so happy with their choice and they found the perfect things. We’re so lucky to be able to do that.

Allison’s 4 Questions to Guide Chocolate Choices

1. Is it for you or someone else?
   (If it’s a gift you might not have answers to the rest of the questions)
2. Dark or milk?
3. If dark, what %?
   (It’s okay if you don’t have an answer, we’ll help.)
4. Stuff in it, or not?
   (The industry term is inclusions, but we think that sounds too posh. We’re aiming for easy!)

Sara: What are your picks for the most unusual, rare, and prized treasures on your shelves today?
Allison: 

• Unusual: Askinosie’s Sweet Potato Pie white chocolate bar (with toasted mini marshmallows!)
• Rare: Caputo’s Wild Juruá foraged Brazilian cacao, a 70% dark chocolate bar by Luisa Abram
• Prized: Ziba Shakhurbai Almonds, an ancient heirloom variety grown in Afghanistan

Sara: What are your personal top three favorites right now?
Allison: That is so hard! I am excited about these lately, in no particular order:

• Fruition’s Bolivian Wild Harvest, a 74% dark chocolate bar 
• Coloma Garcia Tender Turron with Marcona almonds and orange blossom honey
• Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory Peanut Brittle

Confection Consultation

Our interview gave me sweet daydreams of candy, so I headed back to the store to buy my usual favorites: Omnom Sea Salted Caramel Chocolate Malt Balls, J. Patrice Lime Coconut bonbons, and an Askinosie Coconut Milk Chocolate bar. Lucky me, Allison was still working and gave me my very own confection consultation. In just a few minutes, she introduced me to things I had never even noticed or tried before, especially after she zeroed in on my love for coconut, like strawberry cheesecake bonbons, fruit punch vegan gummies, and coconut hard candies. I didn’t know I needed a personal candy shopper in my life, but a confection consultation made my experience so much sweeter. I highly recommend you try it out!

This interview originally appeared in the March / April 2024 edition of Zingerman’s News. Check out the latest issue now!

A confectionery homage to Catalan almonds at the Candy Store

Before there were chocolate shops, and centuries before bonbons became a thing that anyone could even imagine, if you wanted to impress someone you were going to visit and you lived in Spain, you probably took them some turron. This terrific soft almond turron (the top one in the photo) from the Alemany family in Catalunya is beyond amazing!

The Alemany family began to sell honey and honey-based confectionery all the way back in 1879. One hundred and twenty-four years and five generations later, they’re still at it. Alemany is located in the small town of Os de Balaguer, about half an hour north of Lleida in Catalunya. The village has only about 300 residents, which means the Alemany family and their artisan workshop have been very much at the center of local life for nearly a century and a half now.

A big part of their business is honey. They travel all over Spain to gather the best single-blossom honeys when they’re in season. The family also uses them to craft a whole range of honey-based confectionery. Their products are new to us, but the family have been working as they do since they started in 1879! Technology clearly has advanced enormously, but the techniques—and the taste of the turron—remain pretty much as they were in the late 19th century.

Alemany’s Soft Almond Turron is a concentrated confection that’s made mostly of Marcona almonds (which are denser and far more flavorful than almost any other almond) with the addition of a small bit of honey, sugar, and egg white to help hold it together! Catalunya is the world capital of this amazing almond variety. At seventy percent almonds, the turron is the almondine equivalent of dark chocolate. Honey and sugar remain wholly in the background, which means that the turron is only a tiny bit sweet, and very wonderfully almondy. It’s easy to carry these small packets with you in your purse or even a coat pocket. Terrific with coffee—a shot of Espresso and a nibble of this terrific turron would make any afternoon better!  It’s so, so, good!

Try some for yourself

P.S. We are also stocking Alemany’s Burnt Sugar Turron that’s sweetened with white chocolate. And we have the family’s really terrific honey vinegar at the Deli as well!

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