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Sparkling wine and the king of cheeses come together to make one terrific meal.

Sparkling wine and the king of cheeses
come together to make one terrific meal

I learned this dish probably two dozen years ago from Laura di Collibiano, the woman who’s helped to revive the production of the terrific olive oil Tenuta di Valgiano estate in the western part of Tuscany. She makes it, she said, whenever she has “leftover champagne.” You can of course also let some sparkling wine go flat overnight just to make the risotto—the flatness is important—if the sparkling wine is still freshly opened the heat of the alcohol will dominate the dish.

Risotto, I should say, has long been one of my favorite cold-weather dishes to make. In northern Italy, people eat risotto as often as folks in the rest of the country eat pasta. And, although it can understandably feel intimidating to make risotto if you didn’t grow up with it, it’s actually not very hard to do. If you have a copy on hand, the chapter on Italian rice in Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating will walk you through the whole process in a great deal of easy-to-understand detail. We have Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses and Carnaroli rice at Deli and on Mail Order’s website that would be ideal for the dish!

INGREDIENTS

4 cups chicken broth (you may not end up using it all)—we sell great housemade bone broth at the Deli. You can also use vegetable broth to make the dish vegetarian.

2 1/2 cups flat champagne or flat sparkling wine

Rind pieces from Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (optional)

2 tablespoons butter, plus more to taste

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped (about 3/4 cup)

1 cup Italian rice, preferably Carnaroli or Arborio

4 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano broken into 1/4-inch chunks

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley—rinsed and squeezed dry

Sea salt

Freshly ground Tellicherry black pepper

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano, for serving

DIRECTIONS

  1. Combine the chicken broth with 2 cups of the champagne. If working with an unsalted broth, add sea salt to taste. If you have some Parmigiano Reggiano rind on hand, put a piece into the liquid. Bring broth and champagne mixture to a boil, reduce heat only slightly, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Reduce heat slightly again.

  2. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion in the butter until soft and golden (don’t brown or the onion will become bitter).

  3. Add the rice and stir well. Sauté for a couple of minutes until the rice is very hot and shiny. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of champagne. Stir until it’s been absorbed by the rice. Add 1/2 cup of the broth-champagne mixture. Stir until absorbed. Repeat the process over and over again until the rice is tender but still firm.

  4. The risotto is done when the rice is al dente, about 18 minutes from when it first went into the pan. Add a touch more butter and one last 1/2 cup of the broth-champagne mixture. (If you’ve used up all the broth you can use hot water at this stage.) Stir, yet again, then remove from the heat.

  5. Add the parsley and Parmigiano pieces and mix well. The cheese should still be in chunks—don’t let it melt into the dish. Let stand for a minute. Add salt to taste.

  6. Serve in warm bowls. Top with the additional Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and a generous dose of black pepper atop each bowl. Serves two generous main courses or four appetizers.

The whole dish can be made in under half an hour and you can probably play with your kids or read your emails while you’re stirring! The result is a great dinner! Because the two featured ingredients here—Parmigiano Reggiano and bubbly—are already so special, it’s a great way to impress company or convey the importance of any event (such as New Year’s Eve!), or in truth, just to make another otherwise remarkable mid-winter evening into some special. I like to celebrate every day as if it were a holiday—cooking this dish for two on a Tuesday evening is a wonderful way to enhance the quality of any relationship! Cheers!

Pick up some Parmigiano Reggiano
And Carnaroli rice

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Domaine Carneros champagne with Parmigiano Reggiano

Sparkling Wine and the King of cheeses come together to make one terrific meal

I learned this dish, Champagne and Parmigiano Reggiano Risotto, about two dozen years ago from Laura di Collibiano, the woman who’s helped to revive the production of the terrific olive oil Tenuta di Valgiano estate in the western part of Tuscany. She makes it, she said, whenever she has “leftover champagne.” The flatness is important—if the sparkling wine is still freshly opened the heat of the alcohol will dominate the dish.

Although it can understandably feel intimidating to make risotto if you didn’t grow up with it, it’s actually not very hard to do. The chapter on Italian rice in Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating will walk you through the whole process in a great deal of easy-to-understand detail. The three-year-old Roncadella Parmigiano Reggiano we have on hand at the Deli would be ideal for it!

INGREDIENTS: 

4 cups chicken broth (you may not end up using it all)

2 1/2 cups flat champagne or flat sparkling wine 

Rind pieces from Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (optional)

2 tablespoons butter 

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped (about 3/4 cup)

1 cup Italian rice, preferably Carnaroli

4 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano broken into 1/4-inch chunks

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley—rinsed and squeezed dry

Additional butter to taste

Sea salt to taste

Freshly ground Tellicherry black pepper to taste

4 tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano, for serving

 

DIRECTIONS

Combine the chicken broth with 2 cups of the champagne. If working with an unsalted broth, add sea salt to taste. If you have some Parmigiano Reggiano rind on hand, put a piece into the liquid. Bring broth and champagne mixture to a boil, reduce heat only slightly and simmer for about 10 minutes. Reduce heat slightly again. 

Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion in the butter until soft and golden (don’t brown or the onion will become bitter).

Add the rice, stir well. Sauté for a couple of minutes until the rice is very hot and shiny. Add the 1/2 cup of champagne. Stir until it’s been absorbed by the rice. Add 1/2 cup of the broth-champagne mixture. Stir until absorbed. Repeat the process over and over again until the rice is tender but still firm. 

The risotto is done when the rice is al dente, about 18 minutes from when it first went into the pan. Add a touch more butter and one last 1/2 cup of the broth-champagne mixture. (If you’ve used up all the broth you can use hot water at this stage.) Stir, yet again, then remove from the heat. 

Add the parsley and Parmigiano pieces and mix well. The cheese should still be in chunks—don’t let it melt into the dish. Let stand for a minute. Add salt to taste.

Serve in warm bowls. Top with the additional Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and a generous dose of black pepper atop each bowl. Serves two generous main courses or four appetizers.

The whole dish can be made in under half an hour and you can probably play with your kids or do half your email while you’re stirring! The result is a great dinner! Because the two featured ingredients here—Parmigiano Reggiano and bubbly—are already so special, it’s a great way to impress company, or convey the import of any event. That said, you can just put it together for two on a Tuesday evening too! 

The Versatility of Rice

This past Wednesday, Zingerman’s guests were treated to a delicious risotto cooking demonstration from Deli Chef Bill Wallo. The dinner was held in the intimate brick-walled space at Zingerman’s Events on Fourth in Kerrytown, and from the happy smiles on the faces of those in attendance, it was a rousing success.Chef Wallo had help from the effervescent and knowledgeable Alexandra Dib, of Italian Products USA, a Bolognia, Italy-based food importer, who provided many of the fine ingredients used in the dinner; and Deli Manager, William Marshall.

Ali began the evening by talking about the history and background of rice in Italy, and it’s popularity in Northern Italian cooking. Throughout the dinner she, Marshall, and Chef Wallo all shared commentary about the various dishes, while noting the unique characteristics of the different rice varietals as guests sampled the different courses.

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For the first course, Chef Wallo created a dish he calls “Farr-Out!”, a beautiful combination of Farro, beets, Cara Cara oranges, Feta cheese, Orange juice, mint, some Planeta Extra virgin olive oil, and dashes of salt and pepper.

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“Farr-Out!”

Next up was Black Rice Salad with Red Pepper & Pea Shoots, which combined the chewy and nutty flavor of Riso Venere Integrale (black rice) with the bright note of red bell pepper, and sweet green pea shoots. He finished the dish with olive oil, Agrodolce vinegar, salt and pepper.

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Black Rice Salad

For the headline course, Chef Wallo fired up a a pair of burners at the front of the room and proceeded to walk guests step-by-step through the process of creating two different risottos: A full-strength version featuring white wine, farm butter, onion, Vialone Nano rice, vegetable broth, Parmigiano Reggiano, salt and pepper; and a slightly different version made without the wine, and using Planeta Olive Oil instead of butter. Both were delicious.IMG_4782
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Next, came hand-made Arancini. These deep-fried rice nuggets featured a tasty Parmesan-Reggiano center, and were served with Chef Bill’s homemade tomato sauce.

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Arancini

The final course was a testament to the versatility the humble rice grain: fresh Rice Pudding with dried Ginger and Green Cardamom. The dish was a creamy, brightly flavored palate-cleansing finish to a wonderful meal.

See you soon!